Sunday, September 30, 2007
Moki Dugway, Valley of the Gods, Gooseneck State Park and Muley Overlook
1st stop was the Visitor Center who gave us good advise and then off we went... the Moki Dugway is the name of 3 mile stretch of road that is 1100ft elevation change with gooseneck turns or hairpin turns (whatever you perfer)! Speed limit is 5mph! They did pave the corners but not the other parts of the road and it is NARROW! What a view though...
1st stop after getting down into this canyon we took in Gooseneck State park. Wow! It is called this because it is a canyon of turns formed from the San Juan river. Very interesting. Will post pictures when we get a better signal!
Then off to Mexian Hat. It is one of the spires on the Utah side of Monument Valley. fun... then we were off to Valley of the Gods - a 17 mile windy, dirty, rocky, dippy, drive! This is Utah's answer to Monument Valley. fun fun and scary at times but we made it through okay.
Afterwards we went back up the Moki Dugway to Muley Overlook. This is a 5 mile dirt road (a lot better than other roads we had been on)...this overlook offered views of the San Juan river goosenecking it's way through with views of the real Monument valley beyond. Fun place with a van full of young adults.
A little hair raising but fun and glad we went as we may never be here again.
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Grand Staircase Escalante-Capital Reef National Park
The highway from Bryce to Capital Reef travels right through the heart of Escalante and is designated Scenic Highway 12 – I must add with good reason! This was gorgeous driving along this highway! We soon found ourselves more or less traveling with a guy in a small car who stopped at all the same scenic turnouts. He said he was a sucker for this scenery and I had to agree. He was from California and was awed by this landscape.
We met some folks from Germany at one of the turnouts as well and they have purchased a small class C motor home for a two-year stint here in North America. They LOVE it here and say we have it ALL! They were traveling in opposite direction but were just as much awed as we were by the scenery and said they had already traveled most of USA, Canada and some of Mexico. Their plans are to return to Germany and probably sell off everything so they can return to full-time here in USA. Says a lot for our natural beauty in this country.
The pass was 9600+ft and a mighty climb north of town of Boulder. Can you guess why they named it that? No doubt about it, there is boulders everywhere of every shape and color and it is just plain fun to see it all. We were a bit surprised when 3 cows entered the roadway but were patient and let us pass without any harm to any one. Thank goodness!
The quaking aspens were lovely and so colorful it was a thrill to see them. Entering the Capital Reef National Park from the west was a wonderful treat because we had such a build up on the way here. This place is not stupendous like Bryce – it is Tremendous! The size of this reef is gigantic and so colorful besides all the other scenery, orchards and lovely campground with many deer hoping for a handout from the orchard. The orchard has apples and pears at this time of year and you pick for $1.00 a pound on the honor system. It’s a wonderful thing so of course we picked 10 pounds… goodness now I have to start baking again I guess.
Overflow campground-Natural Bridges, UT
Anyway, after a wonderful drive from Capital Reef across some of the strangest country we have ever seen and across the beautiful Glen Canyon Recreation Area we come up to the Natural Bridges National Monument. We quickly learn that they only have 13 camp sites and you must be 26 ft or less. Okay, so they send us off to their overflow area which about 7 miles down the road and we are to look for a gravel area.
We found the turn off okay but no gravel area - instead we find a corral and nothing there... so we figured what the heck and decided to make that our new home for a few days. After getting settled we took for the town of Blanding and had a lovely sunset in the evening. One other rig was there so figured all was ok. Oh yes, we did drive on down this gravel road in search of the gravel area and found the road did continue quite a ways with terrible ruts from the torrential downpour we had last weekend!
First thing today we packed our picnic lunch and headed over to the Monument to check out the 3 natural bridges which are supposed to be something else! We hiked down to each one and after about 6 miles we finally made it all the way through, had a great lunch and headed for home.
As we pulled up in the car we noticed the corral was no longer EMPTY. No, we had quite a number of youngest looking cows. They would only look at us and couldn't tell us anything. Did not take long before a truck and trailer pulled up and we were told we were fine where we were. So these two folks loaded up their truck to sell off the calves they had in this batch.
Next thing you know here come a whole herd of cows with 4 cowboys. The real thing or so it would seem. They picked the worse time of day to herd these cows into the corral (working around the Blue 'Roo -without complaint). The wind was blowing sand everywhere and we were a bit surprised they did not have bandana's covering their mouths. They did a great job and have really worked hard today from what we can see.
They have made a few trips back and forth with their truck and trailer sorting cows and taking them in different loads. One of these cowboys appeared to be quite young (maybe early teens).
As I sit here this evening writing I see the sky is covered with so many colors with a lovely lovely sunset. We are so very fortunate.
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Road to Cedar Breaks Monument-Utah
Bryce Canyon
Walking along the rim trail from Bryce point to Inspiration point spotted this tree root leaning over the side. Would not want to be on trail below when this monster drops down but actually it does look like it will still be there for a while yet. It is amazing to me to see these trees hanging on by what roots I'm not sure and leaning way over into the canyon and yet with the bad weather they get they still manage to hang on.. am sure there is a percentage that does drop over though each year.
Bryce Canyon - Bunny
Doesn't this look like a bunny! I thought so anyway looking at him this morning at sunrise. He is standing up looking over the queen's garden. ha! Was surprised to see so many other out at this early hour to watch the sunrise. Most left before the sun really came up to cast it's lovely shadows over this marvelous canyon.
Bryce Canyon - Inspriation Point- Before the Storm
Bryce Canyon National Park
Friday, September 21, 2007
Kodachrome Basin State Park, Utah
Kodachrome Basin State Park, Utah
Kodachrome Basin State Park, Utah
Kodachrome Basin State Park
The Grand Circle Tour - Kodachrome Basin
We began our tour at Great Basin National Park and were not disappointed. This proved to be a pretty park and although not large in size and so high elevation that it is difficult to get to a good part of the year and not really on the way to anywhere.
Okay, so now we are in Utah and ogling and googling over the lovely red rock that I personally love! We began here in Utah at Bryce National Park, which is awesome! However, to get to Bryce from the west you must come through Red Canyon, which is a spectacular prelude to Bryce! All the cars slamming on brakes and stopping for a photo op! It’s the funniest thing and fun to be a part of this action too. By the way, the campground here is only $12.00 (1/2 off with old peoples pass) with water and dump and scenery to amaze and please any one.
Bryce is one of it’s own. A huge amphitheater of various colored rock in shapes formed and changed each year with the erosion of natural causes. It is the “fastest changing” landscape (geologically speaking) in our National Park system. The park has a 18 mile rim drive gradually gaining 1200ft. There are a number of overlooks and in summer there is a “free” tram in the park. There is also a “rim trail” which offers you a chance to see from the rim as you walk.
There are many trails offered throughout the park. Depending on the time you have to afford, and time of year of course, since this park gets snowed in and there are signs everywhere to beware of lightening strikes when the weather turns bad. Yikes, I don’t want any part of that…
Next we visited Cedar Breaks National Monument. This is another ampitheater type park over 10,000 ft and the day we chose to go was cold as the dickens and windy as all get out! Yes, we did manage to get out of the car and I am sure this could be a neat place to hike but guess we’ll have to wait until another time to find out for sure. Our big highlight of this trip was being stopped along the road by a herd of sheep! Yes, that’s right, who knows how many but there were sheep all over the road and both sides. We did spot two dogs herding the sheep and 1 man with a horse. There was a FED EX truck who did not find this especially fun and sort of edged his way through the melee.
Finally Kodachrome Basin State Park – a very unusual park. The day began with many clouds and quite chilly (39) but by the time we arrived at this park we lucked out with the sun breaking through and we were treated to a beautiful day with fun sights everywhere we looked. We did a few of the trails – one the panorama trail with Fred Flintstone marking the beginning the trail and the Shakespear cave trail where there is a natural bridge. Oh yes, stopped by to see chimney rock named by National Geographic in 1949 when they gave the park it’s name for all the color! This park is located on the Utah’s Highway 12 Scenic Byway. A definite stop and what fun it would be to camp here a few days.
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Bryce National Park
Bryce National Park
Bryce National Park - ET
Here is my friend ET again - trying to peek over the heads of others... Isn't it funny how he stands out, especially against the blue sky! There are so many variances in the color of the rock and it's looks as if the white is more from silt from so many years ago and it seems to be wearing about quickly... wonder how long ET will be with us?
Bryce National Park
Bryce National Park- Queen Victoria
Bryce National Park-who is this?
Bryce National Park - Navajo Trail
Bryce National Park-Wall Street
Bryce National Park-Natural Bridge
Bryce National Park-Wall Street
Bryce National Park - Navajo Loop Trail
Bryce National Park-Hoodoos
Bryce National Park-ET
Bryce National Park-Navajo Loop Trail - Flames
Bryce National Park Castle Top
Monday, September 17, 2007
Panguitch, Utah
Great Basin National Park-Stella Lake
Great Basin National Park-Lower Lehman Campground
Great Basin National Park-Lehman Caves
Great Basin National Park-Lake Teresa
Great Basin National Park Bristlecone Pine Hike
Great Basin National Park, Bristlecone Pine Tree
This is one of the bristlecone pine trees that is still standing although it has obviously been thought a lot! Look at those colors! This was a great hike through a forest of trees that obviously have to struggle to live. They said that these trees can live to be over 4000 yrs old and the harder they struggle for survival the longer they live. Trees with much easier time only live 300 to 400 yrs!
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Hickison Petroglyphs BLM Campground, Near Austin, NV
This is one of the rocks from the hike (stroll) through the Hickison Petroglyphs. This was a neat little "free" campground a bit off the road on a dusty dirt road. However there were about 10 or 12 campsites - all very clean and neat... they even had shade shelters over the picnic tables. Anyway, this place is about 24 miles east of the town of Austin off highway 50. Was nice and quiet and pretty in its own way.
Great Basin National Park, Nevada
This park is not one of the more “popular” parks by any stretch of the imagination and although it is close to the Nevada/Utah border it really isn’t “close” to anything. Our journey began in Reno traveling across the “loneliest” Highway in America (Highway 50) we found our destination to be well worth the effort.
First of all, Highway 50 may be lonely, but it is far from the “loneliest” and it is diverse in scenery. For one thing, we learned Nevada has more mountain ranges than any other state, and after traveling Highway 50 you become a believer! We crossed so many mountainous roads only to come into another valley. We both found the trip well worth it and fun to boot. Yes, we did stop at the cottonwood tree to add a pair of old shoes to the tree! What a hoot! The last stretch seemed the furthest southeast, out of Ely where we had stopped to look at few of the exotic cars passing through on one of their runs.
The road stretched out before us with Mount Wheeler glaring down at us, and it was easy to see this was the spot we were looking for, because of the tree line ending and this monster looming above. The road did weave around and come to a very dry stretch on the north side, and eventually we found our way into this newest National Park. There is no entry fee, so we came directly to our camp ground which is at 7,200 ft. The sites are nice enough, but don’t think any of them are level. We had a heck of time getting level. We did find a lovely spot right next to Lehman creek though and on a walk through the campground we spied two deer. A young buck with velvet looked up at me from the bushes and we both were a bit startled, but fortunately he did not run off and I gained my wits so as not to scare him off!
Later we took a drive over to the Visitor Center to get acquainted with the parks features and took a long dusty road out to see the “gray cliffs”. These marvels are a bit of a freak – just a long stretch of gray cliffs with aspens tucked in below to give off some color.
The start of our first full day here at this park we were overjoyed to see a group of about 5 or 6 deer in our campsite. Again this young buck and I looked at each other and he backed off towards the creek, but I gained my wits about me and was able to snap a few pictures of his mates. How cool is that? Afterwards we headed off once again to the Visitor Center to get in line for our tour of the Lehman Cave.
The cave was discovered in 1885 by Absalom Lehman. This guy crawled around in this vast cave and broke off columns and led tours and promised people a piece of the stalagmites, etc. Although the cave was abused by him and the next two people, the “Rhodes”, who took over selling tours in the 1920’s, the cave came into the National Park system in the 1930’s and the cave was soon on the right road to recovery.
We have been in a number of caves and we both felt this was one of the very best, if not the best. Not because the columns, shields, draperies, soda straws, slabs of bacon, and turnips were so cool, which they are, but you get right up close and personal in this cave. There are railings and they do not want you to touch anything if at all possible, but there are sections very narrow with low ceilings that make it tight. It is colorful and varied and still alive and absolutely a wonder. Mostly a wonder to me is how the water seeps in and goes to work in a cave like this as a work of art when we are in the driest and harsh areas of the country. Truly amazing and the tour guide was excellent. One of the best features is this tour was very reasonable at only $10.00 per person for the 90 minute tour and you get half off with a senior parks pass! Can’t beat that and you get to see all the areas. Children are somewhat restricted on this tour due to the length of the tour.
After the tour, we took the scenic drive up to Wheeler Peak Campground trailhead and began our 2.7 mile hike beginning at 9700ft. This was loop trail that took us through aspen groves and old bristle cone trees and past lake Stella at 10,238 ft and lake Teresa at 10,230ft. This hike was awesome! Well worth the time and effort walking up through that thin air! I thought I was in trouble not being in the best of shape, but goodness sakes alive what a beautiful walk! These trees have been reported to live as old as 4900yrs! If that isn’t awesome enough, seeing these two small alpine lakes that are so high no fish can live in them is a real treat. Besides all that, when we came around the bend and spotted lake Teresa we also spied two deer on the edge of the lake taking a drink and nibbling at the forest floor. They both looked up and went on eating so don’t think they thought they were in danger. It was one of the prettiest sights I have ever known. Talk about serene and remote!
A truly wonderful experience and so thankful we took this hike, although I must say I could feel those muscles in my legs before we reached the car to wind our way back down this scenic mountainside.
Our timing was good here being early fall with the aspens in the higher elevation taking on their fall dress and dancing in the sunlight to the breeze passing by. They were a truly marvelous sight all by themselves and not being familiar with this type of tree was a wonder too. They have to live in very harsh winters and dry hot summers and through it all their leaves dance to a tune all their own.
Reno, NV
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
Travelin down the road to Reno, Nevada
Plan to stay here another day or two and then head east across Highway 50 (the lonliest highway in America) on our way to Utah.
Emerald Lake-Lassen National Park
Lassen National Park
Lassen National Park
Lake Britton-Burney Falls State Park, CA
Burney Falls State Park
Wildlife Refuge-
Wildlife Refuge near Lava Beds
Earl at Fire Lookout Tower Lava Beds Monument
On to Lava Beds National Monument
Just before reaching the Visitor Center that was apparently just completed in 2004 we had two mule deer jump out in front of the coach and right behind them was a rabbit.
At the campground we found an abundance of scrub jays and ravens so we knew this was going to be a fun visit. The jays are such curious birds and the ravens make a funny noise. The American robins were here too which surprised us in this desert of lava rock. I had thought their main diet was earthworms but guess they eat berries too and insects and there are a lot of juniper berries here.
Our first visit here in 2001 we explored all the caves in the park so this time we took a drive out to Tule Lake to the Wildlife refuge. This doesn’t look like much because of the farming around the lake but after spending several hours along a gravel road that went several miles we had a good view of this area. Mainly we saw coots with a good number of white pelicans and western grebes. Ducks too numerous to name and the white faced ibis which we have only seen one other time in Florida. A few hawks were scared out of their tree but the water.
This area is a “shared” community. The farmers are allowed to farm here but they are required to leave part of their harvest for the wildlife! It’s a great concept and seems to work well. This is a HUGE stopping ground for migrating birds in the Spring and Fall. I would love to see all those baby white pelicans but you can’t have everything. Ha!
We did hike up to the top of Schonchin Butte which is about 0.7 mi. of a very steep trail that is a fire lookout station on top. The CCC built the trail and then hand carried all the needed supplies to build the lookout station! Imagine having to do that?! It was a lovely day and we were able to get a pretty view of Mount Shasta from there so especially made the trip worthwhile.